New York ESCORTS TRAVEL GUIDE - MUSEUM of ARTS

OCCUPYING A TRAPEZOIDAL ISLAND diagonally across from Central Park, the 12-story, white-marble building by Edward Durrell Stone stood for close to half a cen­tury at 2 Columbus Circle, near the geo graphic center of Manhattan; but around it lay a cultural wasteland. Today, it is the new home of the Museum of Arts and Design (also known as MAD) which, with the Time 'Warner Center and a revitalized Central Park, completes the rebirth of Columbus Circle as a major destination.

The building has been many things to many people: an architectural oddity ("a die-cut Venetian palazzo on lolli­pops," according to former New York Times critic Ada Louise Huxtable); a wealthy dilettante's cultural folly; later, an emp­ty shell; and, lastly, an object of extreme nostalgia. Stone designed the 1964 building for A&P supermarket heir Huntington Hartford's Gallery of Modern Art, the institu­tion he created to display his collection and promote the cause of figurative art. It was a swank, frilly rejoinderto the high Modernist impulse in art and design, then enshrined as doctrine by New York's Museum of Modern Art (MOMA).

But times change. Supermarket fortunes are frittered away, institutions conceived as vanity projects close, buildings are handed over to the city and then abandoned for lO years while someone decides what to do with them.

So it was that, earlier this fall, I found myself seated in a mahogany-paneled red-and-gold auditorium, whose ceil­ing, a vaulted web of circular brass tiles, pays tribute to Manhattan's only traffic circle, just outside. In this meticu­lous re-creation of the room Stone designed, we were gath­ered to celebrate the Museum of Arts and Design, reopening with a new name and an expanded mandate af­ter an intense presetvation battle and a six-year redesign. MAD's predecessor was inaugurated in 1956 as the Museum of Contemporary Crafts, and craft-as distinct from folk art-has evolved over the past 50 years, carrying on extended flirtations with the fields of art and design, while the museum itself has expanded its global reach.

In a controversial redesign, Brad Cloepfil, founder of Allied Works Architecture, based in Portland, Oregon, has re­made the building from top to bottom. He preserved its quirky, curving shape, restored its auditorium, and kept its sig­nature ground-floor arcade of lollipop-shaped arches, enclos­ing them in glass. (They now offer street views into the lobby and the museum's gift shop, which sells mostly one-of-a-kind, artisan-produced objects.) But he also removed 300 tons of concrete from the structure, sheathing its exterior in iridescent ceramic tile and perforating it with strategic cuts that flood the once-windowless galleries with natural light. Graceful light- and art-filled stairwells allow visitors to spiral between four gallery floors up to the ninth-floor restaurant, which will feature panoramic city and park views when it opens early next year, The result is a rarity, post-Bilbao--an art institution conceived from the inside out. The emphasis is not on the museum as image or spectacle, but on people's encounters with its art-punctuated by stunning views of Columbus Circle and Central Park-as they move through it.

"It's the interior that really generated everything you see on the outside," Cloepfil says on the morning of the opening. "The primary focus is engagement with the art," but the views Out on all four sides "also reconnect you with the city."

It was tempting to draw a parallel with the mission of design itself, as bridging the gap between art's ivory tower and real-world needs. VI/as that what philanthropist Aileen Osborn Webb had in mind when, responding to an increas­ingly technology-driven society, she established the Museum of Contemporary Crafts (devoted to a "plain cousin of the fine arts," as Time magazine called it), in a refurbished Victorian brownstone on W'est 53rd Street, steps away from MOMA? Craft, for her, had always had a social dimension. A decade earlier she had funded educational programs for combat veterans returning from the dehumanizing traumas of World War IT, in the belief that they might fmd solace in metalworking. Later, at the height of the Cold Wal~ she or­ganized international conferences where urban designers mingled with village artisans, in hopes that craft could pro­mote world peace.

Meanwhile, under the directorship of Paul]. Smith, who led the museum from 1963 to 1987, the institution­renamed the American Craft Museum in 1979-continued to hack away at traditional aesthetic hierarchies-between high and popular culture presenting wildly innovative shows devoted to the likes of sound installations, the art of baking, and the like."Whirligigs and spinning wheels" are what Holly Hotchner says most people in the mid 1990's, when she took over as director, mistakenly assumed the museum showcased. And that was if they had heard of it at all. By then, it had outgrown its second home on West 53rd Street, but membership and attendance were stagnating.

In the search for a new name, Hotchner says, "We realized that what was meant by croft at the time of the museum's founding-with architects, designers, artists, and craftspeople discussing how art and industry could come together­actually gave a very sound direction to our future. We've chosen arts, plural, meaning the arts and crafts movement, decorative arts, applied arts-the coming together of many arts and design."

Hotchner hopes museumgoers will begin their visit on the sixth floor, with the new open-studio program, where a rotating roster of artists-in­residence will offer the public a win­dow onto the creative process. There, on the morning of the opening in September, in one of three luminous, linked ateliers, the conceptual potter and performance artist Zack Davis was throwing tiny pots on a wheel, then cramming the still-wet forms into an attache case. "I tried to stick with something that was true to mid­town," he said, explaining that this "dirt in a briefcase" was his im­promptu response to that day's tur­moil in the financial markets.

One flight below him, Hew Locke, born in Edinburgh, raised in Guyana, and now residing in London, stood next to a fantastic trio of model ships he'd fastened together from dime­'store baubles-plastic swords and shields, metal chains, Christmas deco­rations, artificial flowers, toy guns. Titled Golden Horde in honor of Genghis Khan's marauding troops, the work deals with "fears of immi­grants," he explained. "But the work is also about immigrants' dreams of streets paved with gold, and then too about my love for Baroque saltcellars and Mexican Madonnas, and my in­terest in a broken kind of beauty."

Locke' work is featured in the inaugural exhibition, "Second Lives:

Remixing the Ordinary," which runs through mid-February. It spreads out over two floors, and showcases 51 art­ists and designers who transform discarded or commonplace objects­from disposable chopsticks and tele­phone books to toothpaste tubes-into materials for creation. "For the most part, the museum's focus has been on ceramics, glass, metal, fiber, wood-all of the standard craft mediums," says curator David Revere McFadden, who organized the show with his eo-curator, Lowery Stokes Sims. "One of the rea­sons to do "Second Lives," he contin­ues, "was to rethink the entire idea of what material means."

Luminous chandeliers, wittily put together from cascading prescription eyeglasses (Stuart Haygarth) or hypo­dermic needles ominously mingling among Swarovski crystals (Laurel Roth, and Andy Diaz Hope), hang from the ceiling. Michael Rakowitz's re-creations of plundered and lost antiquities from the National Museum of Iraq, in Baghdad, made from Arabic newspa­pers and Middle Eastern food packag­ing, are uncannily moving. Tara Donovan's ethereal sculpture of a coral reef reveals itself, upon closer inspec­tion, to be composed of clear plastic shirt buttons, endowed by the artist with an undersea beauty.

"Increasing numbers of artists in the fine-arts world are very process­and materials-oriented," says Sims, who came to MAD after long tenures at the Studio Museum in Harlem and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. "They don't necessarily think of them­selves as craftspeople," she explains. "They exist in the space between what we traditionally call art and craft, while craft artists are becoming increasingly theoretical and conceptual." Take Johnny Swing's Qyarter wunge, for exam­ple. The craft-intensive labor of solder­ing together some 5,250 coins that went into its creation renders the quarters worthless as money, but endows them with the values of art instead.

Art, craft, and design also rub shoulders in the third-floor display dedicated to the permanent collec­tion, which benefits from its own gal­lery for the first time in the museum's history. Take just the ceramics, for ex­ample. The works on view range from a large blue-green bowl made in 1946 by Viennese exiles and West Coast husband-and-wife potters Gertrud and Otto Jatzler, whose sig­nature crater glaze gives it the ap­pearance of some volcanic artifact; to contemporary avant-gardist Eva Hild's undulating abstractions in stoneware. There are pieces by [me artists-dabblers in the medium such as Cindy Sherman, whose image, dis­guised as Madame de Pompadour, appears on a Nymphenburg porce­lain soup tureen-and lifelong potters like Betty vVoodman, whose classical­ly puffy Pillow Pitcher seems endowed with a quirky; Etruscan grace.

Just below, in the newly opened jew­elry gallery (among the first of its kind in this country), the works of 1940's Creenwich Village bohemians like Sam Kramer-a silver bird pendant, for example, set with a taxidermied eye and betraying the twin influences of biomorphism and surrealism-share space with a distinguished collection of ethnographic jewels and pieces by con­temporary conceptualists such as Otto Kunzli, wbose ironic commentary on our fixation with precious metals takes the form of a gold bracelet entirely en­cased in black rubber; With its unique mandate and loca­tion, Hotchner fully expects MAD to become a major tourist draw. The museum's consistent focus on process sets it apart, she says. "We probably wouldn't have a basic toaster in our collection," Hotchner explains, "but if we did, we'd have the prototypes and the drawings, and perhaps a film of the artist talking about bow it came to be and what forces at the time moved the piece in that direction=-whereas MO 1A's design department would put it on a pedestal and declare, 'this is an important toaster.'"

Still a fly in MO~s eye, then?
That alone might reassure Huntington Hartford that his building, in MAD's daring adaptive reuse, bad not strayed too far from its original mission. And don't underestimate the childlike fasci­nation that the process of malcing things still arouses in people. "In the old days, on 53rd Street," Hotchner re­called, "the museum used to have a weaver working at a loom in the win­dow. And people would pile up out­side to watch her." Today, visitors to MAD can watch a contemporary woodworker on film or stand right next to the spinning potter's wheel. Location is everything.